Cabinet of curiosities & Inspirations since 2009

Cabinet of curiosities & Inspirations since 2009
*I Don’t Own the Rights to These Photos*

26 déc. 2009

Things I love

16 déc. 2009

Chris Von Wangenheim (1942 – 1981): Glamour and violence

Fetching Is Your Dior,Christian Dior ad with Lisa Taylor, 1976

Gia Carangi getting tattooed, 1975

Fetching Is Your Dior,Christian Dior ad with Lisa Taylor, 1976

Christian Dior sunglasses ad, 1976

Chris Von Wangenheim is one of the greatest fashion photographers.

Glamour, Sex and violence were the principal ingredients for the German photographer.
His hard, sexy, decadent images survive among the most exemplary
illustrations of the high-glamour look of the 1970s.
During a period, when fashion photography was focusing on sexual, and often violent,
subject matter—a response to the Women’s Lib Movement,and the rise of punk.

Marie Helvin on her head, 1975

Von Wangenheim’s dangerously seductive photos stood out as some of the most decadent.
His sensibility precisely matched the new fashion trends, whose most distinguished photographic exponents were Helmut Newton and Guy Bourdin.

Men dancing on beach, 1975

Born the son of an aristocratic German officer in Berlin in 1942,
von Wangenheim infused his work with the strong influence of his German roots.
His pictures, like those of his hero and mentor—and fellow Berliner—Newton,
carry echoes of the decadent aspects of Weimar Berlin.
There are references to German Expressionist cinema in his use of low lights
that cast dramatic shadows, and there is a cool, even cruel edge to his scenarios
that hints at an element of cultural and personal trauma.

A cold sexism, often with a sadistic edge,
defines von Wangenheim’s preference in depicting women.

In an interview, He quotes :
"I realized that getting my picture was more important to me
than the disconfort of someone not understanding
or someone's opposition to my goals."

Von Wangenheim created strong and memorable images,
often with disconcerting ingredients:
One for Vogue featured an elegant foot in a high-heeled shoe kicking in a television screen; another, for Dior, showed a model with her arm locked in the jaws of a savage-looking dog.

He succeeded in constructing images revealed a more sinister side of glamour.

“A good fashion photograph,” he wrote in 1980,
“makes a promise it can never keep.”

At the peak of his success Chris von Wangenheim died in a car crash in 1981.

One of his favorite model was Gia Carangi (1960-1986).

Oct 1978 -Gia Marie Carangi - fence

Reigning is your Dior, ad with Gia

Intriguing is your Dior, ad

Gia and models in the California desert, 1979

Oct 1978 - Gia Marie Carangi & Sandy linter - Nude

2 déc. 2009

Madame Yevonde (1893-1975) - Photographer


reated using the Vivex Carbro colour process
involving three negatives,
and pioneered by D.A. Spencer, Yevonde (1893-1975)
dressed and styled society figures of the day as
subjects from Greek and Roman Mythology.

Yevonde Philone Cumbers was born in London,
but partially educated at boarding schools on the continent.
She joined the women's suffrage movement in 1910
and after seeing an advertisement in The Suffragette
decided to become a photographer's apprentice.

Quickly mastering the business as a pupil of
the leading West End photographer Madame Lallie Charles
of Curzon Street, Yevonde decided to set up on her own in 1914
with a studio at 92, Victoria Street and adopting
her first name and previous employer's term of address.

Her business prospered and in 1921 she moved to larger premises at 100,
Victoria Street and in the same year addressed
the Professional Photographer's Association,
reviewing the history of women in photography
and causing controversy in the male-dominated profession
by asserting women's superior abilities as portraitists.

Her work in colour began in the early 1930s and
continued until 1940 when the factory making the materials closed down.

Yevonde continued in photography until her retirement in 1971
when she generously presented her surviving exhibition prints
from her sixty-year career to the National Portrait Gallery.

Madame Yemonde Archive HERE.

Thank you Gabbi for sharing this link.